My boyfriend and I went to Paris in early December and, needless to say, our trip was largely dictated by what we ate and drank. Here is our epicurean itinerary along with a few of my thoughts. Please forgive the iPhone photos - I attempted to be discreet.
DAY ONE:
LATE LUNCH: Le Buci
Me: Croque Madame with french fries and a glass of red wine
J: Croque Monsieur with french fires and a latte
This brasserie was just around the corner from our hotel. We were looking to eat lunch after 3pm which can be a challenge, so this was nothing spectacular, but tasty, distinctly cozy and a nice intro to our Parisian adventure.
DINNER: Le Bistrot d'Henri
Share: Fresh Mozzarella Salad with Tapenade
Me: Roasted Free Range Chicken Leg with Mushroom Cream Sauce and Gratin Dauphinois; Creme Brulee
J: Beef Bourguignon; Apple upside down cake
We ducked into this teeny bistro that was just a short walk from our hotel for our first full meal in Paris. It was deeply french, right down to the chalkboard menu. My chicken was rich and comforting. J's Beef Bourginon (their specialty) melted in our mouths.
DAY 2
BREAKFAST Saint Germain & Victiore (hotel)
Continental
We opted for breakfast in the hotel on the first morning so that we could get the day started early. I'm a sucker for a European continental breakfast - croissants, baguette, cheese, and meat for breakfast? OK! Everything was fresh and the hotel offered a number of healthful options (like meusli and eggs) to keep us going until lunch
LUNCH: Les Antiquaires
Shared: Italian Salad with Burrata and Prosciutto, Chicken club sandwich with french fries, Rose
We stopped in at this little brasserie after a morning at the Musee D'Orsay. The place was packed with a lunch crowd and the people watching alone was almost worth the stop. We decidedly ordered wrong, although our meal was satisfying. The steak frites and roasted fish specials both seemed to be the popular order of the afternoon and they looked delicious.
EVENING COFFEE: Le Hibou
We stopped in at this popular cafe for a quick Irish coffee before heading back to the hotel to get ready for dinner. This hip spot had ample outdoor seating and was another great people watching spot, located in the bustling Carrefour de l'Odéon
DINNER: Le Comptoir du Relais
Prefixe
Fish Broth with Candied Lemon Rind
Tripe Ragu with Parmesan Orzo Risotto
Roasted Cod with seared Leeks
Pigeon Breast with seared Foie Gras, Bacon, and Celeriac Puree
Cheese Platter
Pineapple with Honey Ice Cream and mini Black Pepper Meringues
This was by far our most adventurous meal of the trip - leaving our eating experience entirely in the chef's hands. While we had to overcome a few mental prejudices, each bite was delicious. The cheese course arrived on one of the communal cheese platters that was restocked and passed to each table. Luckily neither my boyfriend our I are turned off by sharing, so we were happy to be granted the chance to eat our fill of cheese - which was a lot.
DAY THREE
Breakfast: n/a
After sleeping in a bit too late, we grabbed a coffee on the way to our wine and cheese class.
LUNCH: Wine and cheese tasting at O Chateau
Would highly recommend this experience. The class was in English, taught by a very personable Sommelier. We learned about french wine while munching on some amazing french cheese & charcuterie.
AFTERNOON SNACK: L’Éclair de Génie
We sampled 2 eclairs - one signature and one caramel on our walk back home from the wine tasting. They were everything an eclair should be and so much more.
DINNER: Semilla
Shared: Tagliatelle with Mushrooms, Cheese
Me: Cod with Gnocchi & Spinach Puree
J: Pork Two ways with Polenta
There were a number of delightful restaurants just around the corner from our hotel, all part of one restaurant group. We started at chic and cozy Semilla, where we began with tagliatelle in an unctuous, butter sauce with mushrooms that melted in your mouth. My cod was perfectly cooked and served over a spinach puree that was simultaneously fresh and decadent. The evening was made extra special by a Benedict Cumberbatch sighting at the bar.
DESSERT: La Grande Crèmerie
Shared: Wine and Rice Pudding
After a leisurely dinner we decided we wanted a little walk around the neighborhood, after which we ducked into an adorable wine bar just across the street from our hotel. We sat at the bar and enjoyed a nightcap alongside rice pudding and a mouthwatering fleur de sel caramel.
DAY FOUR
BREAKFAST: Marché Biologique Raspail
Potato Pancake w/ cheese and onions
Pastries
Hot Chocolate with Crème fraîche Chantilly Cream
Crepes with Butter & Sugar and Fresh Jam
We decided to start the day a bit late and explore the Sunday organic market in St. Germain. We snacked along the way through glorious fresh produce and countless bakers, finishing off with the best crepes of the trip.
LUNCH: Au Vieux Colombier
Coffee
J: Croque Monsieur
Before heading to the Rodin museum we stopped in for a quick cup of coffee at this great people watching spot. J ordered a Croque Monsieur that was solid, but not remarkable.
AFTERNOON SNACK: Freddy's
Champagne, wine, cheese & coppa
After the museum we checked out another one of the restaurants belonging to the group near our hotel. This one was a lovely little wine bar that served up an outstanding selection of charcuterie (alongside a jar of cornichons that we finished!) and cheeses.
DINNER: Marco Polo
Shared: Burrata with Prosciutto
Me: Tagliatelle with Mushroom & Panchetta in Cream Sauce
J: Steak w/ Shaved Parmesean with Angel Hair Pasta in Tomato Sauce
Per Ina Garten's recommendation, we switched things up with a trip to this neighborhood Italian Restaurant. Despite the smoke-filled patio area, we enjoyed yet another large serving of burrata (a staple of the trip) with divine prosciutto. J's simple side of angel hair pasta in light tomato sauce was the standout of the night with simple fresh flavors and perfectly cooked pasta.
DAY 5
BREAKFAST: Saint Germain & Victiore (hotel)
Continental
LUNCH: Cafe Marly
Shared: Coffee and Ham & Cheese Omelette
Because we were planning a particularly indulgent dinner we opted for a quick shared meal at this cafe that is part of the Louvre (another Ina rec). The omelette was perfect and only made better by a lovely atmosphere.
DRINKS: Experimental Cocktail Club
On our way to dinner we stopped at this hip spot for some creative cocktails. We instantly felt cooler upon walking into this hideaway marked only by a small initialed sign. We sat on tiny velvet stools and sipped our swanky cocktails.
DINNER: Frenchie
Stay Tuned for a post on this amazing meal and Part 2 of our Paris food adventure.